If you're making a corset or girdle for the first time, you might follow the pattern instructions and think that's all there is to it. But did you know there are at least 3 ways to make a corset? That's right -- three different ways to sew your bodice and lining and sew your boning. For certain types of corsets, each method is better than the other—and each has its own place in your personal skill set.
Lining method This method is by far the easiest to understand for those new to corset making, and is often the method of choice for many professionals. A lined bodice keeps the lining and main fabric together from the start and treats the two fabrics as one throughout. Inadequacies? If you're using a heavy fabric plus a coutil lining, then most of these layers plus a bone casing can cause problems with your normal sewing machine.
The advantage of using this method is that the panels can be easily taken apart and resewn if any assembly is required. Even if only one panel needs to be adjusted (for example, you plugged it upside down), readjustment should be no fuss. The bones will definitely show, so if that bothers you, this one isn't for you.
To do the lining, cut each pattern piece in coutil (recommended for thick linings for corsets) and main fabric and stack them on top of each other with the wrong sides facing each other. Paint or serge the perimeter of the gobo. These parts can now be considered as one to sew the bodice.
Tapered shells can be stitched (eg notched) to seam allowances and topstitched on all layers. suture flip This is the method I included in my corset pattern, Liberty Corset. The stitch & flip method, also known in the corset community as the Flat Felled Method, utilizes hidden seams.
This works especially well for corsets, like corsets for Halloween, where you can try to keep costs down. The seams do not add bulk to the bone shell. The advantage of this approach is its simplicity - once the panels are sewn together, the bone channel can be sutured directly in the panels.
Can you see the downside? Here it is - if you need to make any changes to the interior panels, you'll have to get all the seams back into the wards. So an error on panel 3 means that 4, 5 and 6 need to be deselected. To do the Stitch & Flip method, always start with the center panel and insert the busk.
If there is no interlining, layer the reverse lining with the main fabric. Then laminate the right side of the main fabric second panel to the right side of panel 2 and the lining to the lining side. Sew all 4 layers at the same time.
I show 4 layers of offset below. When you press the seam back (which is the only way it can go), the seam is fully finished inside and out. You can then sew the bone shell as shown below (neater though!) independent lining method The last method treats the lining and main fabric completely separately, so the boning is actually the inner layer and the main fabric is just a fancy cover.
This method sounds easier, but it can be tricky, especially if the outer fabric is fragile or prone to fraying (even as you're dealing with it). In that case, I wholeheartedly recommend backing the fragile fabric with some sort of interface to add some thickness to the fragile layer and keep it from fraying. You can tell from the picture above that the fabric is wearing out rapidly! The advantage is that you won't be putting stress on the fragile fabric, since the main cover fabric is relatively loose on the backing layer.
Plus, there are no bone shell seams to spoil the beauty of the richly patterned fabric. The downside is that you are making two separate layers and you have to be careful to get the seams of the main fabric perfectly lined up with the seams of the lining. If the main fabric is too loose on the lining, the fabric may appear baggy.
To make a Stand Alone lining, sew the lining panels together and apply the bone shell to the lining only. The main fabric panels of the interface are then sewn together. Place the bone lining on the wrong side of the main fabric, and smooth the fabric.
Ideally, the seam of the cover will line up with the seam on the liner. Do not insert the bone until the layers are sewn together. Crazsweat is the professional corset manufacturers in China, welcome to contact us to buy the corset you want.
Copyright © 2021 Foshan Langqin Clothing Co.,Ltd - All Rights Reserved.